Sunday 19 August -- 2018 Holy Land Day 7: Ein Karem, Jericho, the Dead Sea

Bethlehem in the morning

It was a pretty normal morning -- up, dressed, breakfast, then heading out for another full day. One perceived difference was that it was pleasantly cool when we boarded the bus to head out, and remained so for most of the morning. The afternoon would make up for that, though!

We left out of Bethlehem, passing through the Wall checkpoint again without incident, driving up around the west of Jerusalem toward Ein Karem, the birthplace of John the Baptist. Along the way, Tony expanded on his own deep Christilean roots in the Holy Land. Among his ancestors he claims Maltese Crusaders as well as a direct line of descent from the native Christians of the Holy Land as far as records will carry him -- which is 1400 years, all the way back to the devastating Persian conquest in the early 7th century when a lot of records were lost.

We also passed the large Israeli Holocaust Memorial complex, Yad Vashem, on the forested western slope of Mount Herzl, "the Mount of Remembrance." It is  more than just a museum -- it includes a school, as well as archives and a library. There is also a section of train track and one of the cattle cars in which victims were transported to the death camps. 

Our first stop in Ein Karem was the Church of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist. We saw the very site, which is marked by what I believe Tony said is the oldest Jerusalem Cross ever found. 

Photo from Ingrid

Outside the church, we recited the Benedictus, the Canticle of Zechariah, proclaimed when he regained his voice after the birth of his son, which is posted on a series of plaques around the courtyard in many different languages.

Blessed be the Lord, the God of Israel;
he has come to his people and set them free.

He has raised up for us a mighty savior,
born of the house of his servant David.

Through his holy prophets he promised of old
that he would save us from our enemies,
from the hands of all who hate us.

He promised to show mercy to our fathers
and to remember his holy covenant.

This was the oath he swore to our father Abraham:
to set us free from the hands of our enemies,
free to worship him without fear,
holy and righteous in his sight
all the days of our life.

You, my child, shall be called the prophet of the Most High;
for you will go before the Lord to prepare his way,
to give his people knowledge of salvation
by the forgiveness of their sins.

In the tender compassion of our God
the dawn from on high shall break upon us,
to shine on those who dwell in darkness and the shadow of death,
and to guide our feet into the way of peace.

(Note: This is not the translation that was posted. It is instead the one that I am most familiar with as printed in the Liturgy of the Hours. I will follow the same practice for the Magnificat and any other such prayers we come to.)

Then we took a long half-mile walk, uphill all the way ("many steps"!), to the Church of the Visitation. Along the way we recited the Rosary. I led the last decade right at the gate into the courtyard right outside the church; instead of concluding in English, I continued without pause directly into chanting the Salve Regina in Latin. Almost everyone joined in, I believe. 


 It was right at 10:00, time for Mass in the main Church of the Visitation, commemorating Mary, newly pregnant with the Son of God, came to her aged cousin Elizabeth, six or more months along in her own miraculous pregnancy:

     And the angel said to [Mary] ... "And behold, your kinswoman Elizabeth in her old age has also conceived a son; and this is the sixth month with her who was called barren. For with God nothing will be impossible.” And Mary said, “Behold, I am the handmaid of the Lord; let it be to me according to your word.” And the angel departed from her.
     In those days Mary arose and went with haste into the hill country, to a city of Judah, and she entered the house of Zechariah and greeted Elizabeth. And when Elizabeth heard the greeting of Mary, the babe leaped in her womb; and Elizabeth was filled with the Holy Spirit and she exclaimed with a loud cry, “Blessed are you among women, and blessed is the fruit of your womb! And why is this granted me, that the mother of my Lord should come to me? For behold, when the voice of your greeting came to my ears, the babe in my womb leaped for joy. And blessed is she who believed that there would be a fulfilment of what was spoken to her from the Lord.” (Luke 1: 35-45)

Mary as the Ark of the New Covenant explains why the preborn John the Baptist leapt in his mother’s womb. In the Old Testament, the Ark of the Covenant was the dwelling-place of God Himself, before which King David danced as it was brought into Jerusalem. Mary, in conceiving Jesus, became the dwelling-place of God Himself. When the Ark of the Covenant was brought into Jerusalem, David danced before his God. When Mary approached Elizabeth, John danced before his God.

 In his homily, Padre's theme was: Mary came here in haste, from Nazareth, on foot, a journey comparable to our own of a couple days ago which took us a couple hours driving all told, in air-conditioned comfort. Hers was much longer, much less difficult, much less comfortable. (An amusing story. I had offered after the first day to start chanting the Responsorial Psalms, which I then did at every Mass. Just the day before I had proposed to Padre that we chant the simple Latin Mass Parts at least for Sunday, which he had okayed as well. And then I proceeded to mess it up. For whatever reason, I zoned out after the Creed if we said it this particular day; I may even have dozed off for a moment sitting up -- by this point in the pilgrimage I was dragging a bit. Whatever the reason, I suddenly zoned back in, heard Padre say something about "and we say...." -- and thought it was time for the Sanctus, which I launched off into. Others joined in after a moment, but since I often sing with my eyes closed if I know the piece fairly well, I didn't see what others reported to be an amused grin on Padre's face -- because he had actually been introducing the Intercessions! I only realized it when Br. Miguel took up with the Intercessions immediately upon us finishing the Sanctus. All I could do was a quiet face-palm. So, in my mind at least, our Mass at the Church of the Visitation became the "Mass of the Double Sanctus." And, of course, I was wide awake from that point; sudden humiliation with a side of adrenaline kind of does that....)

The Church of the Visitation contains magnificent paintings of scenes both from the Bible and from Christian history – Mary and Jesus at Cana; the 431 Council of Ephesus where the question of Mary’s status as Mother of God was definitively decided; Duns Scotus, the great Franciscan philosopher who advocated for the understanding that Mary was not just born and lived without sin, but was indeed conceived without sin through the prevenient grace of God (the Church of the Visitation is under the authority of the Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land); the 1571 Battle of Lepanto – 07 October (now commemorated as the Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary) – … and of course, the Visitation itself.

High on the back wall of the church is one of the most beautiful paintings of the Virgin and Child I've ever seen, modernistic though it be:

 Not in the church itself, but in a room adjacent can also been seen a huge rock set into the wall -- the "Rock of the Hiding," behind which an angel is said to have hidden the baby John the Baptist when Herod’s soldiers came to kill all the babies under two years old. Ein Karem was fairly close to Jerusalem (it's part of the city now) and would have been part of that jurisdiction. A painting above depicts the scene.

In the courtyard outside, like in the church at the bottom of the hill, there are many plaques displaying Mary's song which followed immediately from the Visitation quoted above -- The Magnificat (again quoted in a more familiar English translation):

My soul proclaims the greatness of the Lord,
my spirit rejoices in God my Savior
for he has looked with favor on his lowly servant.

From this day all generations will call me blessed:
the Almighty has done great things for me,
and holy is his Name.

He has mercy on those who fear him
in every generation.

He has shown the strength of his arm,
he has scattered the proud in their conceit.

He has cast down the mighty from their thrones,
and has lifted up the lowly.

He has filled the hungry with good things,
and the rich he has sent away empty.

He has come to the help of his servant Israel
for he has remembered his promise of mercy,
the promise he made to our fathers,
to Abraham and his children for ever.

Padre, Angela, and Maria
(Photo from Ann via WhatsApp)

Donna, Kristal, Ann, Jennifer, myself, I
ngrid, Br. Miguel, Kathie,
(Photo from Ann via WhatsApp)

We walked back down. Halfway, we stopped at another religious articles store vouched-for by Tony. I think it may have been connected with the Sisters of the Rosary, who also run a guest house for pilgrims. At the bottom of the walk -- a gelato shop!

Then we took a long bus ride into the Judaean Wilderness to the east, to Jericho, descending from Jerusalem's altitude of about 2500 feet above sea level to about 850 feet below sea level. The thicker air plus temperatures pushing 100F were not nearly so pleasant as the morning had been, even though the humidity was pretty low. Along the way the stark contrast with the western approaches to Jerusalem was impressive. There is pretty much nothing here but rocks. And yet we did see some ramshackle Bedouin camps as well as the goats they herd. Amazing.

Sycamore Tree
Photo from Kristal

Photo from Kristal

Jericho - Tony's house near center
Photo from Ingrid

 Jericho is, however, an oasis -- literally -- with gardens and orchards, by comparison with the surrounding landscape downright lush and green. Looming over it all -- the Mount of Temptation, where Jesus spent forty days and forty nights fasting immediately after his Baptism in the nearby Jordan River. (By the way, we did not go there; Tony gave us the option, but said that this time of year we would only see a bare trickle of water 
through a narrow ribbon of mud in a mostly dry river bed. We opted out.) Tony pointed out that, given the proximity, during his long fast, culminating in the Temptations for which the mountain is named, Jesus could have seen immediate relief from the torments of hunger and thirst looming below him.

As we pulled in to an open-air bazaar facing the Mount of Temptation, Tony pointed out his own vacation home some distance away in Jericho itself. 

Some of our group rode a camel there. We went into a couple of shops as well -- including the main (I believe) Dead Sea Company store, where I was able to get Anne some of the cosmetics and soap products that I had seen but passed up at the Nativity Souvenir Co-op yesterday (and which I will always associate with our breakfast companion in Shrewsbury, England, ten years ago now -- my repeatedly hearing the young lady saying she worked for the "Detsi Company" until she said it very slowly for me! [LINK, Tuesday 25 March]).

Photo from Ingrid

Leaving Jericho, we drove past Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947. Tony told us the story of the most important archaeological discovery of the 20th century: A young Bedouin goatherd, seeking a stray, cast a stone into one of the many caves dotting these cliffs. He was startled to hear the sound of clay pottery shattering. Hoping to find treasure, he did -- just not the kind he expected or even recognized as such. Some of the many clay jars contained old scrolls, most in fragments. As it turned out, some were copies of Hebrew scriptures a thousand years older any any existing Biblical manuscript. The result was a revolution in Biblical studies that is still ongoing.

But we did not stop there -- Tony said it really was not worth it and just showed us the caves in which the scrolls were discovered, visible from the road, as he told us the story of the Qumran community of Jewish "monks" called Essenes -- and we continued on.

We reached the Dead Sea. Some of our number did go "bathing" or "floating"; knowing of my recent pacemaker implantation, Tony flatly forbade me -- and indeed I saw a sign warning against heart patients and those "owning" high blood pressure entering the highly salinated and mineralized water. I did walk down to the water's edge, take some pictures, then trudged back up a ways to "The Lowest Bar in the World" and had a really good Goldstar Dark Lager at about 1300 feet below sea level. It was quite pleasant, especially since I'd snagged a table by an evaporation air cooler. tAfter a while, most of our "floaters" having gone back up, I trudged the long walk back up to the entrance mall where I found most of our number in a cantina around another evaporation air cooler.

"DEAD SEA BATHING DANGEROUS [TO]

HEART PATIENTS AND OWNERS

OF HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE"

VIDEO

About 16:00 we rode back toward the hotel, back through the Judaean wilderness, arriving a bit after 17:00. We had some free/rest time until 19:00.

I mentioned above, upon leaving Galilee, that there were two things that I would dhave liked to have seen that were not on our itinerary, both doubtless in consideration of time and cost (time is money), in part because both would have required fairly long drives out of our way. In the north there was Banias; in the south there was Masada – Herod the Great’s fortress atop a great rock which served as the last bastion of Jewish resistance against the Romans after Jerusalem fell and the Temple was destroyed in AD 70, at the end of the Jewish War. It was ultimately less Roman military force than Roman military engineering that brought the fall of Masada – the remains of a great ramp built by the Tenth Legion under General Flavius Silva stand even today in remembrance of how the Romans ultimately moved their siege engines into place 1300 feet above the desert floor, against the walls of the fortress, and breached them … to find that a thousand Jewish rebels had committed mass suicide rather than be slaughtered or taken. That happened in either AD 73 or 74 – amazingly, we are not absolutely certain which, but then Josephus could be amazingly careless with his chronology. Masada looms over the Jewish psyche even today, a rallying cry more powerful by far even than Texans’ “Remember the Alamo!” or the Greatest Generation’s “Remember Pearl Harbor!”

Inside the St. Gabriel Hotel:
(Bottom to top, left to right)
Kathie, Robert, Donna, Ann,
Kristal, Kent, Jennifer, Mary,
Ingrid, and Br. Emilio
(Photo from Kathie)

For dinner tonight we went out of the hotel back across to Shepherd's Fields, to the Grotto Restaurant across from the one we had lunch at yesterday. There we had, a night early, our semi-formal "farewell dinner." It was virtually the same menu as lunch yesterday, but maybe even better. Hatem, the local head of Nativity Pilgrimages, was there and joined us, as did Tony. There were thank yous and testimonies all around -- as to the value of Nativity Pilgrimages and the work it does as not just another tour company, not even just another pilgrimage company, but indeed a ministry or apostolate to, among other things, support the native Christians of the Holy Land especially those identified as "Palestinians." That is one of the most important things I think I have learned and experienced on this trip, that there is a whole group of essentially original Christians whose story is not told, or even worse, misrepresented. The other topic was the role and value of Radio Maria, and almost everyone there's important role in that apostolate.

It would have been a good way to end the pilgrimage ... but we have one more day. Tomorrow -- Jerusalem.